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Build your own performance wood street luge!!
The SHXRaven
Streetluge is gravity driven high speed racing excitement!


>>> WARNING!! <<<
Before proceeding, view warning at bottom of page!
It is important you read the warning before proceeding!

Get your materials together


This is a layout of the parts you will need to purchase and make to build the SHXRaven


This is what you will need for this project:
  • 1 - 8' hardwood 2"x4"
  • 1 - 2'x3'x3/4" 13 ply furniture grade finished plywood
  • 1 - 3'x1"x4" Brazilian "ipe" hardwood (Very important! Do not use ordinary 1"x4")
  • 4 - 1 1/2" wood screws
  • 3 dozen - 2" wood screws
  • 3 dozen - 2 1/2" wood screws
  • 2 dozen - 3" wood screws
  • 12 - 3" bolts, washers and lock nuts for attaching trucks
  • 2 - 6" stool legs with mounting plates
  • 3 - Randall 2 longboard trucks
  • 6 - 83mm or 85mm wheels
  • 12- ABEC5 bearings, spacers, washers, etc.
  • 3 1/2" long bolt and lock nut
  • Large washer
  • Rubber blocks for bumpers
  • Foam padding
  • 2'x2' square fake leather
  • Free weights (purchase after construction and weight distribution check in step 15)
  • Other things I forgot
Get the parts ready


Click for larger diagram
Cut the 2"x4" into two sections, a boom and a tail. For each piece, measure and cut as follows:
Boom section: Measure from bottom of feet to bottom of butt plus 9".
Headrest section: Measure from middle of neck to top of head plus 9".

Rail section: (must be made from Brazilian hardwood) Measure from bottom of butt to middle of neck plus 9".

Pan: Measure from bottom of butt to middle of neck plus 10.5".
Cut pan, gussets, spacers, footrest parts and weight block from 3/4" 12 ply furniture grade finished plywood.
Seat and headrest pads

Cut some foam padding into a block that is 4" wide, 1" thick and 12" long. Cut another piece that is 4" wide, 1" thick and 6" long. Cut out squares of fake leather big enough to wrap around the pieces of foam. Spray the fabric side of the leather with a strong spray adhesive such as 3M Super 77. Then wrap the leather tightly and neatly around the foam pieces. Now you have a headrest and seatpad. Put these aside for use later
STEP 1)

Glue two of the spacers together as shown, be sure they do not slip while drying. Drill out the screw holes then insert the screws as shown. Repeat with the remaining two spacers.
STEP 2)
Cut the 2x4 according to the measurements you got of yourself earlier. The longer one is now the boom, the shorter one is the tail. At one end of the boom, cut away a wedge shaped piece that is about 10" long about about 1" thick at is widest end. The cut end of the boom should be about 1/2" thick. This is now the front of the boom. 
STEP 3)
Using glue, attach the spacer assemblies to the boom and the tail, aligning the angled edges so they  make a smooth slope. Make sure they do not slip while drying. Drill out the screw holes then insert the screws as shown.
STEP 4)
Glue the pan to the boom and tail. This is where a laser level comes in handy to keep the pieces aligned and straight. Make sure they do not slip while drying. Drill out the screw holes then insert the screws as shown.
STEP 5)
Now glue the rail to the bottom of the pan. Secure in place to make sure it does not slip or pull away while drying. Drill out the screw holes then insert the screws as shown.
STEP 6)
Attach the gussets to the frame assembly. Glue them on, being careful to align them. Make sure it does not slip or pull away while drying. Drill out the screw holes then insert the screws as shown.
STEP 7)
Glue the longer piece of the footrest pieces to the top of the triangular piece with the angle to the rear as shown. This is now the footrest assembly. Then attach the pegstrips to the rear edge of the footrest assembly as shown. Glue them on, being careful to align them. Make sure it does not slip or pull away while drying. Drill out the screw holes then insert the screws as shown.
STEP 8)
Attach the footrest assembly to the boom of the frame assembly. The front of the footrest should be flush with the front of the boom. A bumper will be attached here later.
STEP 9)
Cut the stool legs down to 4 1/2". Assemble the stool legs, then drill two screw holes from the back of the leg bracket into the stool leg itself. Inset two 1 1/2" wood screws. These are now the handles.
STEP 10)
Attach the handles to the frame assembly using screws as shown. Make sure they are secure and do not wiggle about. Now sand the entire thing smooth, remove splinters and paint it or stain and shellac it, then put some protective clear coating on it.
STEP 11)
Now we will attach the trucks. Print out this truck placement guide for the placement of Randall 2 trucks using 83mm-85mm wheels. Apply 3M Spray Mount removable spray adhesive to the back of the patterns, then carefully stick them to the bottom of the frame as shown. Use a drill press or a hand drill keeping the drill perpendicular to the frame. Remove the guides before attaching the trucks.
STEP 12)
Attach the headrest and seat pads using a strong spray adhesive such as 3M Super 77. Press down on them for several minutes or place weights atop the pads. 
STEP 13)
Attach a front bumper (it must be an IGSA or other relevant organization approved design if you wish to race). Place rubber strips or rubber tubing on the leading edge of the footrest nerfing area.
STEP 14)
Now attach the rear bumper (it must be an IGSA or other relevant organization approved design if you wish to race). Carefully check over your luge, adding screws to strengthen where necessary.
STEP 15)
Set the front trucks on a common bathroom scale. Set the rear trucks on a block the same height as the scale (or a second bathroom scale if you have one). Be sure it won't roll, then lay down on the luge in full riding gear. Have someone read the weight measurement. You could use a video camera or mirror if you are alone. Now swap the scale and block locations (or if you have two scales, simply read the second scale measurement).
For optimum performance and safety, you must balance the luge. The weight distribution should be:
Combined weight of the luge and rider in prone position
60% on the front trucks
40% on the rear truck
Free weights are good for this. They come in 5lbs., 2.5lbs.  and 1lbs. increments. They MUST be tightly bolted to the frame and must absolutely must not come off, even in a wreck.
Congratulations! You have built a street luge!

Very nice, you should be proud. Just like a fine sailing yacht or major league baseball bat, wood still kicks ass! And now go and build some more SHXRavens with your friends and spread the word!!!

>>> WARNING!! <<<
By viewing this webpage you absolve the author from any and all liabilities incurred from undertaking the steps outlines in this webpage.
Street luging involves a substantial degree of risk which can be minimizeded by wearing proper safety equipment and following basic rules of motor safety and self preservation. The author assumes no responsibility for any personal injury or property damage resulting from any information or links contained within this site. This information is offered only as a general description of how to construct a wood street luge. The information is not intended as a detailed guide for building a street luge or a recommendation on how you should construct any particular wood street luge. THESE ARE NOT DETAILED PLANS, ONLY GENERAL DRAWINGS. CONSULT EXPERIENCED RIDERS AND EXAMINE COMMERCIAL STREET LUGES FOR ADDITIONAL INFORMATION . This luge is HAS NOT BEEN SPEED TESTED IN EXCESS OF 65MPH. CAUTION: A street luge traveling downhill will not stop without braking until it strikes another object - and has the potential to exceed speeds that are unwise for the novice rider to attain. Ride at your own risk, within your limits and always wear proper safety gear, a full head helmet with faceshield, full body racing leathers with armor, heavy leather gloves. Wrist and ankle support are greatly recommended.

These pages and concepts copyright  © 2000-2004 Shrox Industria TM
Eureka, CA 95501 - United States of America